[111217, 2154 UTC,  Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands , 07º06' N / 171º 22' E]

Dear Friends;

This Christmas finds Carina and crew still in Majuro atoll, capital of the Republic of the Marshall Islands.

When we arrived in Majuro in mid October after our long and difficult passage from Vanuatu, we really didn't know what to expect. It was not that we hadn't researched Majuro or tapped into the world wide cruiser net, it was that we had received greatly differing opinions about the place, though most were negative. We have found some of the things we had been warned about: a legacy of paternalism and social welfare from the US, degraded infrastructure, trash in the lagoon, ineffectual and sometimes corrupt leadership, declining educational standards, substance abuse and maltreatment of innocent companion animals, but we have also found some things we didn't expect at all. Many of the locals are warm, friendly and kind and curious of our lifestyle. Also, there is a lively community of cruisers and liveaboards who work diligently to develop and maintain a community that is resourceful, inclusive, and welcoming.

It's truly unbelievable to realize that Christmas is upon us already. This is the first Christmas in many that we've been around Christmas abundance - stores filled with bright plastic toys and shelves stocked to the ceiling with Christmas lights, tinsel and every imaginable bauble - and it feels a bit overwhelming. It's also a bit surreal to hear piped in Christmas carols like "Walking in a wintry wonderland..." when the temperatures are in the 90s and the nearest ice resides in our freezer. The weather has been hot and unusually windy with frequent fierce squalls which seem to pop out of the sky without warning.

We won't be indulging in buying any baubles ourselves this Christmas but will invest instead in sharing the joy of the season with family and friends, however far away they might be. As such, we will try to display good cheer to all, be generous in giving of ourselves, hug those who are near, and to appreciate our good health which is a possession that no amount of money (or credit!) can purchase. We will also remember those who have sadly passed on who we miss especially during the holidays and those who have sailed over the horizon and out of our lives.

Merry Christmas to all,

Philip, Leslie and fat cat, Jake