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Longan Island |
sits in the northwestern part of the Ninigo lagoon. It is surrounded by reef. |
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Our First |
anchorage corresponded with a waypoint given to us. This site was a bit too exposed. |
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We Moved |
actually twice until we were nestled in a pool in the reef; just a few meters away from coral...but snug and secure. |
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Our First |
lunch ashore was with Campbell and Nellie, Eileen and her two little children, Jamileen and Benard Petese. Jamileen was likely suffering from recurrent malaria and we got involved in corresponding with a physician about her condition and later providing malaria meds. |
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Longan |
is a garden island and many families from around the lagoon have gardens here. These are snake beans. |
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Longan |
is home to a "primary" school which is like an upper level elementary school in the USA. Thus many families relocate here so their children can attend school. The lower level "elementary" school is on Amik Island. |
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This is |
the new classroom at the "Amik" Primary School located on Longan Island. |
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Eileen |
teaches in this classroom. |
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These Students |
are students of Mr. Kolpi and Mr. Maron...and we had a fun visit with them but could hardly get them to talk! |
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Babies |
are a common sight on all of the Ninigo Islands. You rarely hear a baby crying. |
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Francesca |
was hoping to ask us for some pain medication for her back and offered us some shells. She also brought a lovely dish of rice, pumpkin and coconut to our second lunch ashore this day. We declined the shells but gave her some NSAIDs for her chronic pain. |
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Keren |
Belynda Oscar, Oscar's wife, is showing us a coconut oil lamp that is the only source of light in their home. |
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One of Ocar's |
young sons preparing cassava for the meal. Children are an active part of food gathering and preparation. They're good kids. |
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Children |
do have a little free time and they like to do kid things. This funny little pool table was popular with the wee boys. Two of these boys just had their periodic head lice shave... |
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Again |
the kids are great and help with chores and with babysitting. No one grumbles. Families are close. |
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Cats |
play an important role in keeping rats at bay. Justin Kolpi, a local teacher, told us that in their home they have rats that will actually nibble on their feet at night. Justin now has a similar cat named Rusty. |
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Katharsis |
was named for a large yacht that recently visited Longen. Campbell loved the name. In front of Campbell is magnificent Leiti, wife of Solomon who we met first at Mal. Solomon and Leiti also treated us to a lovely lunch ashore, as did Dennis and Caroline. |
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On Longan's West |
shore there is a bay defined by fringing coral. On shore here, live Rellen and Elizabeth and their many children. Rellen was building a canoe and visited Carina asking for help. |
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When |
Rellen and Elizabeth visited we gave their son an activity coloring book. We found him actively using it when we came ashore the following day. |
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Rellen |
was trying to finish his long canoe with the help of his brothers - Michael is in white - and his friends. Some of his lumber was compromised and he asked us for help with epoxy resin and fiberglass to repair some areas. |
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Philip |
and Rellen checked the canoe carefullly and decided what needed doing. |
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Ninigo |
canoes are assymetric. |
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Ribs |
are the only part of a canoe hull that is fastened with metal fasteners. These are the copper nails that are so highly prized. |
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A Copper |
nail from the outside with a copper foil washer. |
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Construction |
is purely with hand tools. |
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Hand Made |
plugs are made from wood called ha in the Seimat language. The plug is a hunahun when installed. |
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Wood |
for canoes is salvaged so there is often a bit of creative scarfing involved in canoe construction. The plugs in the side holding the hunahun plugs are called hasa. |
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Even |
plugs are made by hand with an ax. |
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Philip |
prepares epoxy resin for repairs to wood. |
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Rellen |
prepares a knot hole anticipating Philip's epoxy resin. |
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The Bow |
and stern of Ninigo canoes are interchangeable and both are covered in a thick deck held down solely by hunahun or plugs. |
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A Precise |
fit is helpful. |
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Once |
plugged the deck is planed smooth. |
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Elizabeth |
kept a pair of birds captured when they were babies. These beauties were well fed and loved to snuggle the family. |
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We Asked |
Oscar and Keren how we might get to Pihon to visit with a little blind boy named Jamie and Oscar quickly offered to take us in his new canoe Sea Mate. |
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We Left |
after breakfast one day. Keren is tiny but she is surey strong. Oscar was preparing the rig at the time. |
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Ninigo Canoes |
have rectangular sails. Oscar's sail cloth was from a yacht's spinnaker. We did a few small repairs to it before the trip and more afterwards. |
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We Were |
well stocked with food and cameras...as the weather became a wee bit iffy. |
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Oscar |
decided to put into Amik to wait out the weather... |
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Approaching |
Amik takes care even in a canoe. |
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Amik |
is densely populated. It is the main island for the Catholic islanders. |
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This Kitchen |
was spacious. |
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John's |
canoe shed was very neat. His canoe under construction was a magnificent. |
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Again, |
hulls are assymetric. The base is a single piece of carved wood that defines the lines of the canoe. Designs are family secrets. |
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Out-rigger |
design is also an art. |
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Tools |
are simple and sharp! |
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John |
is an artist with wood. |
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This Massive |
old growth tree floated up from some far off land...Malaysia or Indonesia or Thailand and was treasured by the Amik islanders. |
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Masts |
are made from the wood of this tree. Trees in the bush according to Oscar that are larger and have straighter, longer branches. |
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These Little |
boats are left over from an Asian fishing company that was in the lagoon in years past. Over-fishing and low prices soured the relationship. The fishing company sold many of the small boats to islanders before they left. |
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Keren |
was enjoying our walk on Amik. |
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The Squall |
cleared and off we went towards Pihon. |
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We Had |
to make one tack around a shallow reef in the middle of the lagoon. |
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Even |
Leslie was called upon occasionally to be ballast out on the outrigger. |
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The |
seat hangs out to the leaward side and makes a comfortable deck. No canoe travels the lagoon without a fishing line trailing. |
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Detail |
of Oscar's hand constructed sail. |
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The Clearing |
storm gave way to intense sun. |
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When We |
finally turned back west from our visit to Pihon, the sun we in our eyes. |
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Back |
at Longan, we settled into projects as we watched the weather. |
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We Had |
a few curious visitors. |
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A Trip |
up the mast was required to inspect our wind indicator that seemed to be bent. It afforded us a rig inspection too. |
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In Preparation |
for departure, we needed to clean Carina's undersides. Justin and Oscar agreed to help. |
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Beatte |
and her friend decided to come and investigate. |
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And then |
it was time to say goodbye. |
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Which Was |
very difficult. |
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Masel |
and his family heading home to Pellehuhn sailed past on departure day and gave us a final goodbye. |
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And We |
put to sea through the narrow pass in the reef. |
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Into |
an intertropical convergence of stormy weather and variable winds. Oh, and contrary current. |
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The Squalls |
and fronts brought us amazing cloud formations. |
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And |
challenges. Twenty one days at sea brought us to Pohnpei's wonderful harbor at Kolonia. |
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